Saturday, July 07, 2012

Silent Valley Details

After my last post on trekking in Silent Valley, I got a few requests to put up some more details. Here the details:

Stay: I stayed in a resort called "Malleswaram Lodge" owned by a person called Dominic. The website is being updated http://www.malleeshwaram.com/ . According to Dominic, the website will be up and running in a day or two. You can contact Dominic at : +91-9961544663. Here is a blog link to their site: http://malleeshwaram.wordpress.com/  and http://malleeshwaram.blogspot.in/  (I f you looking to go to other places in Kerala, I would suggest Manoj, of Bumble Bee Holidays, for arranging your trips to Kerala. I have taken his help a couple of times. I find him very professional and helpful. He can be reached at: +91-8147087770.)

The resort we stayed in was an 'Eco Friendly' resort. Which meant there was no electricity at all. The resort was on the edge of the jungle. We we step out, on our left the ground dropped into a valley. It is a thick forest, so you cannot see the valley. There are only hurricane lamps in the room. No bulbs or fans. The 'hut' is made of mud. It would have been a real tribal thing had we not had a modern toilet !!! The dining area is also very dimly lit and you need to carry torches with you. The nights, if it is cloudy or nearing new moon day, will be pitch dark. I guess it will be wonderful on full moon days but when we went there was a cloud cover so the darkness was intense. A lovely experience. Dominic has only 3 cottages, so it is quite exclusive and very very quite. 

Drive: The resort was located in a place called 'Attappadi'. This is on the road from Mannarkad to Coimbatore. From Bangalore, you can approach Silent Valley from two ways. You can go via Coimbatore and then proceed from there to Silent Valley. The approach is to go to Mysore, on to Bandipur, Gudalur and through Nilambur to Mannarkad. From Mannarkad, Silent Valley is less than 20kms away. While going I went the Mysore way because I wanted to avoid driving through Coimbatore. Also because I love driving through Bandipur forest. We sighted a lone elephant along the way. Also the usual deers and monkeys. We avoided going into Nilambur by taking a village road before Nilambur and reached Mannarkad.

Silent Valley: The Silent Valley National park has limits to the number of people it allows inside the park per day. So you need to take prior permission. Dominic did this for us. You are taken in a jeep safari inside the park. Animal sightings are rare. We just saw one Malabar Squirrel and a couple of interesting birds. But I love the forest so I was quite happy with the drive. If you are interested in animal sighting, be prepared to be disappointed !!! If you like the forest experience, you will not be disappointed. In every jeep compulsorily has guide. Our guide's job was to sit as silent as possible. Even when I asked him something, the driver would answer!!! 

If you are a person who wants to see many places, then it is better to stay in Palghat and make a trip to Silent Valley and get back. Because there is nothing else than Silent Valley National Park in this place. As we did you can do a trek in some other part of that region. But if you are not in a position to trek, Palghat or Coimbatore may be the best place of stay.


Saturday, June 30, 2012

Silent Valley Trek



"The huge cobra comes out at the appointed time, drinks the milk and then goes behind those rocks. It does not harm anyone". We instinctively moved a step back, though there was no signs of a cobra, for that matter of any snake whatsoever.


Our guide was an old man, more than sixty years of age. His body was that of a farm laborer. Not a single piece of fat anywhere, muscles tightly wound due to physical exertion, dark and extremely fit. As it happens in Kerala, the sixty plus years old man was called 'Baby' and he was describing to us about a local tribal festival.


"People gather here during the festival time. Tribal folks, from all around here and also far off, gather at this place. In the night there will lot of drinking and dancing. Drums will reverberate and music will be heard. This happens during a full moon day. This whole area will be full of people." Baby swept his across the hillside, now completely uninhabited. We had trekked here from our resort and were at a 'temple' built by stacking stones on top of each other. "Behind those stones lies the long black cobra, which will appear during the festival without fail" The temple was the high point of a small hill. The area was completely deserted and except for us there was no one to seen anywhere in the vicinity and there was no signs of any civilization.

"Now we will go through the grass and then we will go to the forest. We will then trek back through a tea estate". Babu mapped the trek path for us. The serious trek started after the snake temple. We went through grass which hid us completely and scratched our hands, through bushes with thorns which pricked us and through shrubs with insects which bit us once in a while. Gayathri and Harini then got the realization that watching Nature in Discovery channel was a better option. Baby turned around and told us, "If we are silent, we may sight a porcupine here. They are generally sighted at this place." But it was not be. Harini kept going, "When will we get out of this place", "How much more time will the trek take", "I am getting scratched", "Insects or biting me", on a continuous basis. We crossed that area and Baby looked at Harini, smiled and told, "If we were silent for just five minutes, we could have seen the porcupines."


We arrived at a clearing. There was a very small hut there and Baby told us, "This is the house of one of the tribal, who lives here with his family." We were stunned when we looked at the hut. The first thing which caught the eye was that the hut had no door at all!! It had a tiled roof and mud floor. A couple of dogs were lazing outside the hut. A feeble vegetable garden surrounded the hut. "There is no door. Everything is open. How do they sleep here? Don't they feel cold? Aren't they afraid of wild animals?". Those were questions which Gayathri asked rapidly. The hut was in the middle of the very definition of jungle, no other sign of any life nearby. You can easily imagine how that place would be during night, especially on a new moon night or on a cold night. But then, these are people who have made peace with the environment and know how to mingle with the elements. Unlike us, who need to condition the air we breathe.



We moved ahead and the ground was sloping down. We were descending the hill and were coming close to the river which was running down in the valley. As I was about to sit at one place, Baby cautioned me. "Don't sit there. Can you see the mud path here? That mean the wild boar comes this way. In case he comes running you will be in his way." Not liking the prospect I moved further down and rested on a rock which had no such paths anywhere nearby. Now we could see the river flow. Baby started peering into the trees on the other bank. "I heard elephants were sighted on the other bank." Now we were not very keen on meeting the elephant in close quarters. I love elephants, in fact adore them, but I am not sure this fact has been communicated to them. We kept looking but the elephants were elsewhere doing whatever they do during that time of the day.


Now we started climbing up and Gayathri was very upset by all the climbing, scratching and biting. "Why do you insist on these treks when we are not keen." She was fully irritated now. As usual promising her that the end was very near, we continued the climb. We soon reached a waterfall. The sight of the waterfall and the prospect of sitting on the rocks with your legs in the water made everyone happy and all irritation and tiredness vanished. The kids sat by the running stream. Baby told us, "idhu kaataruvi yaanu.(Forest waterfall). No one has name it and very few people know about it." You can see what he told was true because there were no Pepsi/Coke bottles, or Frooti tetrapacks or Lays covers strewn around. It was as pristine as it can be.

Baby then pointed to an insect which was yellow in color and looked like a well fed caterpillar and asked us, "Do you want to hold it in your hands?" Before we could say "Nooo", Baby had already scooped the insect and it is then the magic happened. Upon the touch of Baby's fingers, the insect rolled itself into a ball and the outer coating was as thick as wood. Now in Baby's hands was a wooden ball, the insect had vanished. What marvels nature has in store for us.


After spending some time refreshing ourselves in the stream, the cool water driving away our tiredness, we continued our climb. Suddenly Baby stopped us and pointed to a space in between two big trees. For a minute I couldn't make out anything. Then I saw the web the spider has spun. The web was large and built across two trees. In the middle sat the huge spider, larger than any spider I have seen till now. It had red and black stripes. We were later to see another huge one with yellow and black stripes. Baby explained, "These spiders are poisonous. The bite of some spiders is painful. The bite of some spiders make you itch for almost a year. In some cases the itching stops after two or three days but exactly one year later the itch reappears for two or three days." Something like an itching anniversary!!! We now started walking more carefully watching both our steps as well as our heads. Scratching yourself for one full year is not a great prospect.


We then reached the tea plantation and well laid out paths. There was lot of joy all around seeing the tea plantation. I told Gayathri, "We are all tea plantation walkers, not trekkers." After walking through the tea plantation for a couple of kilometers we were back in the resort. In the whole trek we had not sighted a single animal and we realized that it didn't matter. For walking through the forest is an experience by itself and I enjoyed it thoroughly.